My Red Lipstick, throughout the ages!
Singer, Actress, Burlesque performer Dita Von Teese
In the words of my favorite, Dita Von Teese, the queen of burlesque, “Red lipstick and heels will put the fear of God into men.” Even as a 24-year-old, young woman, who is not an extensive cosmetic consumer, the only beauty product that I keep going back to every day is my red lipstick. I bought my first red lipstick for a Fresher’s party, during my undergrads, back in 2014. It became a turning point for my awakening towards the power of the red lipstick. The red lipstick has been a revolutionary product overlining social, political, and cultural changes, not just in our modern history but also in our contemporary world. It has been a weapon of choice, revolving around women/feminist movements.
Red lips have been a classic symbol of both sensuality and femininity at the same time. Actresses, singers, designers, and fashion models with the scarlet tint on their lips have been at the center of popular culture and fashion industry for ages. Right from Elizabeth Arden to Coco Chanel to Marylin Monroe, Veronica Lake and Elizabeth Taylor in the 1930-60s (Golden Age of Hollywood) to Madonna, Gwen Stefani in the early 90s-late 2000s, and in the current times pop icons like Taylor Swift, Rihanna, and Lady Gaga are seen as a symbol of glamour, in different eras. All these ladies have boldly sported the red lipstick in their movies, music videos, advertisements, at public appearances, practically everywhere. They have been the game changers in making,red-lipstick the most-coveted fashion product worldwide.
What amazes me the most is how a particular shade of lipstick, i.e ‘red’ manages to make people uncomfortable and feel threatened, even today. I genuinely feel good about myself after putting a little red lipstick on. It may be seen as an exquisite way of asserting my femininity in public spaces. If a dash of red lipstick makes me feel confident about myself and helps me improve my body image, then I’d wear it every day, with every single little chance that I get to flaunt it. Minus all the over the top sexual connotations attached to it, applying the red lipstick turns into a power move in itself. Proving that its not just another lip shade or an ordinary fashion accessory for women.
Some of the most powerful, modern-day feminist icons that we have today, like AOC and Amal Clooney love showing the fact that they are in charge and will unabashedly take up space in this male-dominated world with their fierce yet subtle red pouts.
Red, as a color has often been associated with emotions like love, lust, anger, rage, and even passion. Red is also the color of danger and at the same time a sign of warning too. In the Hindu religion, red is supposed to be the color of Shakti (female energy) and is considered to be remarkably auspicious. Red is also considered to be the symbol of procreation and new life.
Looking back at the history of red lipstick, in ancient Greece, prostitutes were required to sport red lip pigment under law, so that they people didn’t confuse them with a noblewoman of the upper class and were punished for deception if found without the red lipstick. As a symbol, red lipstick underwent a multitude of changes. In the medieval period/dark ages, where the people were extremely god-fearing, religious groups and the church condemned makeup for challenging God. According to the popular beliefs, a puckered up face with a red tinge on lips was the easiest way to burn in hell, after death.
In the 1700s, the British government passed a law that formally denounced red lipstick stating that women found guilty of seducing men into marriage by the use of cosmetic means would be tested for practicing witchcraft. Queen Elizabeth-I used to redden her lips to ward off evil spirits. In 1953, Queen Elizabeth-II wore a custom made crimson-colored lipstick for her coronation.
In the 1880s, French actress Sarah Bernhardt caused a sensation when she appeared publicly, wearing red lipstick. It was seen as an act of defiance and was considered extremely scandalous as she openly flaunted it in places like cafes and thoroughfares. Red lipstick has been a symbol of female activism and women empowerment throughout the world. From prostitutes and witches to royalties and movie stars, the red lipstick has made a mark everywhere.
With the Flapper movement and the rise of silent movies in the 1920s, the dark red lipstick particularly became immensely popular. The idea of red lips as a beauty standard became synonymous with the idea of the modern woman, in Europe and the USA. During World War-II putting on red lipstick became identical to the act of defiance. Mainly in the allied countries, it became a sign of showing one’s patriotism. Interestingly enough, Adolf Hitler hated the red lipstick and made-up women. The levying of high taxes made the red lipstick costly in Britain. It suddenly became an item of luxury, far away from the reach of normal women. So they rubbed the beetroot juice on their lips as an alternative.
There was an entire beauty campaign launched for women in Britain and the USA by the government as well as the beauty products manufacturer. This was during the duration of the war, where slogans such as, ‘Beauty is Duty’ were coined out on propaganda posters. Red lipstick became an essential thing for women who joined the US army. The US beauty brands tried their best to reap profits out of this wartime trend. Women wearing makeup and especially the red lipstick became a morale booster for women who entered the workforce for the very first time in America. It was during this time that Elizabeth Arden launched her classic, Victory Red lipstick, and Helena Rubenstein introduced Regimental Red lipstick.
The third wave of feminism began in the 1980s-1990s, a part of which is popularly known as the ‘Lipstick Feminism’. There have been several critiques of it but its key idea is to enjoy one’s sexuality and femininity to the fullest in opposition to the patriarchy. A classic example of a celebrity who can be termed as a lipstick feminist is Madonna, the world-famous queen of Pop and one of the most influential female figures of popular culture.
The glamour of the disco era began in the 70s and along with it started the subcultural movement of punk rock and grunge music. The 70s saw rockstars like David Bowie and Prince openly sported makeup and the red lipstick. Taking a cue from this, all-male punk rock bands like KISS and popular artists like Marylin Manson and Steven Tyler came to be known for their signature lipstick looks.
We are in the 2020s now and the popularity of the red lipstick has been undisputed, even after centuries. Right from the Sumerian civilization, about 5000 years ago to till today, the red lipstick has had its own journey. It's safe to say in the end is that the red lipstick is here to stay, cutting across civilizations, wars, calamities, cultures, continents, classes, races, and sexes!
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